The Mule Ride.
We were standing around for about twenty minutes, waiting for the wranglers to arrive. When they did, we handed over our “suitcases” (big plastic bags with our clothes) and got directions on the whole shebang. The wrangler gathered us round and asked if any groups would like to ride together. We and a family of three volunteered. The wranglers loaded us up onto our mules (mine’s name was Chappa) and we were off.
The first switchback is supposed to be intimidating, but I wasn’t all that scared. I guess I’m more used to heights (living in the mountains) and riding (nine years of Horse Camp) than your average person. Mom said she was nervous until she saw Rach in the front of the line waving her “motivator.” After that, she figured it was okay.
Not much of incident happened until we got to Indian Gardens (a sort of oasis at the place where the trail levels out.) Well, actually, it was plenty interesting, but not something I could easily describe. Anyway, at Indian Gardens we stopped for lunch, refilled our canteens (The three of us loved the canteens. The looked quite a lot like Zuko’s water skin in Avatar) and used the bathrooms. The bathrooms were pretty awesome. They were some kind of composite toilet because they didn’t flush, and a certain breeze was to be felt in the seat itself.
We rode parallel to a small creek that cut away huge boulders. It was quite magnificent; this little trickle, maybe a foot wide, was rushing through gigantic rocks with the speed of rapids. After it turned to flow down to the Colorado, we turned to the opposite direction to a steep mountainside riddled with switchbacks. I was rather glad to be on mule as opposed to my own, less sturdy feet. The rock formations looked like something from Lord of the Rings, maybe Rivendale. The next part was nicknamed “the Oven” due to the fact we were traversing between two walls of rock, which were baking us. The wrangler, Steve, told us that this is where most of the injuries and deaths occur. We were not encouraged to hear that nine to fifteen people die on the trails each year because they ignore the warnings not to hike from the rim to the river in one day, hike alone, or don’t bring adequate food or water.
Maybe the most exciting part of the trip was right before we got to Phantom Ranch. We went through a tunnel directly onto a suspension bridge across the Colorado River. After we got past the bridge, we past some remains of pueblos. We were delighted to get under the shade of the trees.
The Assistant Manager of the ranch gave us a rundown of the ranch. We went to our cabin, #8, and changed into our swimming suits. What I really wanted to do was just to lie down in the air conditioning for a few hours, but the manager had told us that was the worst possible thing to do, since it wouldn’t stretch out your aching muscles and work out the soreness. So, we went swimming in the creek.
The creek was really, really nice. We were in a shaded area where the water came up to our knees, but we could lie down and submerge ourselves completely. Dad suggested that we should build up the few small rocks acting as a dam, a project Rach and I embarked upon with much gusto. Some kids who were camping at Bright Angel Campground helped us out until somebody told us not to “disturb the riverbed.” Around that time I discovered my fantastic watch had been broken by the water. I plan to enact the warranty as soon as I get home.
A ranger was offering a lecture under the sycamore tree on plants the ancient natives used in clothing, medicine, and food. There was a small stone fence in which benches were set out, and picnic tables behind the fence. Mom and I were sitting on the picnic tables. I was trying to place my legs in such a way on the fence that I might get a tan and also trying not to disturb the gentleman in front of me. Despite my efforts, I accidentally nudged him. Being the courteous soul I am, I swiftly apologized. He made no sign of noticing, but no biggie.
Several second later, the guy’s head lolled back and he started gagging. I wondered for a second if he was joking and had a twisted sense of humor. Panicked, I looked to Mom, horrified. She raised the alarm, yelling “Man in trouble! Man in trouble!” with all the tender sensitivity and composure of a psychotic guest of the Jerry Springer Show. Luckily, the ranger responded with more knowledge and calm than Mom and ran up to the man and laid him out on a bench. He came around almost immediately, and not wanting to embarrass the man (his name, he told us, is Art) we went back to our cabin. Fortuitously, our cabin was about twenty feet away the tree. We spent the time between then and dinner playing the “which would you rather” game. Would you rather jump out of an airplane with half a parachute or lick peanut butter off a hobo’s foot? ‘Tis a most fun game.
The dinner was really good. They provided lentil loaf for vegetarians. To this day, I do not know what, precisely, lentil loaf is, but it was delicious. After dinner, we went to a better-fated ranger program about the first expedition of the Grand Canyon. We headed back to our cabins, and sleep.
It was not to be. My top bunk was so creaky it protested loudly when I breathed. I switched to the bottom bunk. According to Dad, I woke up yelling indiscriminately, “What’s going on? Where are we?” I only remember it being really dark, Dad standing by my bunk with a flashlight, and I being extremely freaked out. He asked if I wanted the bathroom light on, a proposition which I instinctively clung to. I also know that I didn’t really fall back asleep, because my eyes kept flitting open on their on accord from the reassuring light. Eventually, I had to go to the bathroom. My stealthy hand-washing, however, did wake up Mom, who suggested I could sleep on one of their top bunks. This, too, held intuitive promptings as a good course of combat for a nameless fear. After I made that final switch, I slept pretty well.
The next day we woke up and set out early. Art and his family had been offered an extra day at Phantom Ranch as a bit of a respite, but seeing as he had experienced this condition before and ideal treatment required medical equipment the ranch clinic didn’t have, he valorously decided to brave the trail. Mom (she seemed to feel responsible for him) offered her neck cooler and quietly insisted he use it.
Due to our ailing member, we did our best to go quickly, seeing as our path, the South Kaibab Trail, has little shade and no additional water, but we ended up rather late. We had a little “graduation” ceremony at the top that christened us as “mule slickers” and said a fond farewell to our wranglers and fellow riders.
We got some well-earned relaxation when we got back to the camper. I did my best to read, but Rachel and Emily, succumbing to their senseless addiction to watch Nickelodeon, no matter how dumb the show, had the Timmy/Jimmy Power Hour Trilogy reruns on at full blast. For those of you who are unspoiled by the knowledge of the Timmy/Jimmy Power Hour Trilogy, count yourselves lucky. It’s roughly the dumbest, lamest, and most disgusting looking thing on Nick, with the possible exception of Mr. Meaty. Oh, well.